Upgrade Guide

Staged Power

Staged Upgrades: 3000GT VR-4 and Stealth TT Everyone has different tastes and preferences. This list is by no means a definative source. The greatest caveat is that evry car is different and results will vary. Also some of the parts mentioned may be for off-raod use only in your state.This is only a general guideline. Some components mentioned here may be substituted or left off depending on personal preference and perfomance interests.	Aproximate HP Gains
Stage 1: Tune Up and Performance Prep The first thing you want to do before adding more power is to go to a reputable shop that can give you a complete tune-up. Install a set of Magnecor KV85 8.5mm plug wires and a nice set of NGK plugs. Also make sure that your stock fuel injectors are cleaned and balanced. If your car is approaching 60K miles, please have your timing belt replaced if you haven't already done so. With these done, you are now on your way to making more power, safely.	NA
Stage 2: Intake What you want to do here is to improve the flow of air through the engine. The stock airbox is very restrictive. Replacing that with a open element intake like the K&N or HKS Power Flow helps the engine breath better by allowing more air in to the engine.	6-8
Stage 3: Exhaust Likewise the exhaust will also improve the flow of air through the engine. The stock exhaust from Mitsubishi uses small piping that are bent in a lot of places, restricting flow. It is recommend you go with a larger diameter and mandrel bent exhaust.	8-12
Stage 4: Boost Controller and Boost Gauge Once you have opened up the air flow with the intake and exhaust, it is now time to turn up the boost! By installing a boost controller, you can take advantage of what you've done in stages 1 and 2. This also allows you to put the factory turbo to full use. The stock boost on the '91-'93 cars were set at around 9 psi, and the '94 and newer cars are factory set at 12 psi. With a boost controller, you can now safely turn the boost up to 14 psi on both generation models. At this time, it is extremely important to install a aftermarket boost gauge. The stock gauge is highly inaccurate! The boost gauge is both a safety precaution and a great diagnostic tool. This allows you to make sure that your car is not over-boosting or under-boosting. Also do not boost past 14psi with stock fuel injectors. Even if everything "feels" ok. You will knock and approach fuel cut. Fuel cut has a very high percentage of breaking a piston and or a valve. After 14lbs of boost a stock turbo system is just dumping in a lot of hot air. Resist the urge to turn it up. Do not overboost!	30-50
Stage 5: High-Flow Cat Installing a street-legal high flow cat is the next step.	15
Stage 6: Downpipe After you turn up the boost, it is now time to free up the exhaust some more. The downpipes that comes from the factory is (what else?) very restrictive, not to mention heavy. By installing an aftermarket downpipe, you will notice a weight savings of approximately 10 pounds.	15
Going past stage 6? Now your starting to get serious! Consult with your favorite 3S tuner for combinations, brands, etc. It is also important that you have moved up to stage 4 on the performance chart by this time. Stage 7 upgrades have been considered best to get all at the same time.
Stage 7.1: Fuel Pump You will need a unit capable of much greater flow. Yes your gas mileage will start to drop with Stage 7.	25-35+
Stage 7.2: Fuel Injectors Most people move up to the 550cc flavor. These are a large move over the stock 360cc injectors. Some people will use the 450cc injectors out of the turbo eclipses and some people go all the way up to the 720cc models for real tranny busting power.
Stage 7.3: Air/Fuel ratio controller There are several to choose from. This will control the extra fuel you will be dumping in. Also getting a Air/ Fuel ratio gauge is a good idea. There are units that range from $300 to $1,500. So be sure to research the one that will perform to the level you will need.
Stage 8: Larger Turbos Now after stage 7 you are ready for a turbo upgrade. The two most common upgrades are to the 13g and the 15g turbos. These two units just bolt on and will provide a large power gain.	13g - 40 15g - 80
Stage 9: Intercoolers Now after your turbo upgrade. You need to get the air charge temperature down. The amount of power is proportionate to the intercooler size and turbo size.	20-40+
Stage 10: Ingnition You most likely will need to supply a hotter spark to ignite the increased fuel and air mix.	2-4
Stage 11: Underdrive Pulley and Aluminum Flywheel These are two controversial upgrades. Most tuners recommend you balance your crank in order to safely and effectively use these two mods. On the other hand several guys have put them on without balancing their engine and have had no problems. Just be sure to research this one for yourself.	15-20
Going past stage 11? Now your obsessed! Consult with your favorite 3S tuner for combinations, brands, etc. It is also important that you have moved up to stage 8 on the performance chart by this time.
Stage 12: Port heads, intake, and exhaust manifolds. The Factory intake and headsare actaully very nice out of the factory. They could use some improvement when you to want to build more than 550 or so horse power. The stock exhaust manifolds could use some work at just about any stage.	10-40
Stage 13: Forged Pistons and Rods Forged Pistons will allow you to safely run much higher boost. Plus while tuning and you hit detonation you piston will have a much higher chance of not sustaining damage. Forged Rods will let you really pound on the crankshart with out warping, bending or breaking. At lease compared to the stock rods.	Allows higher boost
Stage 14: Heat Treatments You can have your Pistons, Valves, Turbos, Exhaust pipes all coated wit a space age ceramic coating. This coating will reduce air flow temps. Lower temps allows for more boost!	Allows higher boost

Staged Performance

Staged Upgrades: 3000GT VR-4 and Stealth TTEveryone has different tastes and preferences. This list is by no means a definative source. The greatest caveat is that evry car is different and results will vary. Also some of the parts mentioned may be for off-raod use only in your state.This is only a general guideline. Some components mentioned here may be substituted or left off depending on personal preference and perfomance interests.	Corresponding Power Stage
Stage 1: Wheel and Tires upgradeAt this time we will take a break from adding power and focus on reducing weight. This is especially critical when your car weighs 3,800 pounds! The stock 91-93 17" wheel and tire combination weighs 52 pounds. By going with a lighter wheel, you will reduce the critical upsprung weight. This aids in all facets of the car from acceleration to braking to handling. Some wheels like the BBS, Blitz, and SSR wheels weigh less than 20 lbs. each, allowing a potential savings of 15 or more lbs. for each wheel and tire. Stay away from chrome! You know the old saying: "chrome don't get ya home"! As for tires you can choose a set of rubber that best suits your local terrain and or driving habits. Just remember the larger the contact patch the better you stick to the ground.	1-4
Stage 2: Blow off Valve upgradeA blow off valve protects the turbocharger from compressor surge (boost pressure being forced back to the turbo when the throttle plate is closed under boost). What you will notice with the installation of a BOV is quicker boost response and recovery. You won't really see a horsepower gain, what you will notice is that the turbo is aggressively spooled up and ready to go at a moments notice (which leads to the feeling of more power).	4-5
Stage 3: Intercooler Y-PipeThe stock Y-pipe (the plastic pipe that goes from the intake to the throttle body....in the shape of a "Y") has a tendency to blow off at high boost. This usually happens around the 15 psi and up mark. What you will notice is a loud pop and something hitting the hood from below. The car will stall out and you will lose all power functions (including power steering). Don't worry! More often than not, all you need to do is to reattach the Y-pipe, just make sure to have a screwdriver handy. By replacing this plastic "Y-Pipe" with a aftermarket one, you will eliminate the chances of the pipe blowing off as well as allow more air to flow through.	4-6
Stage 4: Clutch UpgradeAfter upping the horsepower beyond the 400 HP mark, you will begin to notice the shortcomings of the factory clutch. At this point we suggest an upgraded clutch that was designed to handle more power as well as provide a smooth engagement.	6-7
Stage 5: Lowering SpringsLowering the car an inch or so will show tremendous amount of less body roll. You will corner with greater speed. You also will see a slight less amount of drivetrain power loss getting to the wheels. The downside is your ride will be a bit rougher. Good thing you CD player has anti-skip built in.	6-7
Stage 6: New GaugesGood gauges to have are Air/Fuel ratio and an EGT(Exhuast Gas Temperature.) The A/F gauge will make sure you are not lean out your fuel mix for the amount of boost you are running. The EGT gauge will keep you informed as to how hot your turbos are running. If they get too hot they will only be putting in hot air into your system. Air that is too hot will lead to detonation.	7-9
Stage 7: BrakesThe faster you go the faster you need to stop. First you can get better rotors and better pads. Second you can get steel brake lines. This will help your brakes respond just a hair quicker. Third you then can get bigger rotors And to top it off you can get even larger rotors and larger calipers.	8-9
Stage 8: Intercooler PipesIf you are running a special or upgraded intercooler you will most likely want to be sure and optimize air flow and be able to hold the higher pressures.	8-9

VR4 - R/T TT Upgrade Guide

Stage 1 Kit - LS1 Killer - 365 HP  Pesky LS-1 Camaros and Firebirds got you down? Add this kit to your 3000gt/Stealth TT, and all those Slowmarows will see is your tail lights getting smaller and smaller! This kit will product about 365 HP @ 15psi of boost. This Staged Upgrade Kit includes: Stillen High Flow Intake Kit Blitz DSBC ID 3 Spec R Boost Controller Stage 2 Kit - C5 Vette Killer - 400 HP  This kit builds on the foundation of the Stage 1 Kit. This complete system includes a full SUS304 stainless downpipe and cat delete pipe that have thicker construction to withstand the heat of extreme exhaust gas temperatures. The catback portion of this system features lightweight SUS304 piping with a specialized full Inconel tip. This will turn heads from blocks away as you eat the Vettes alive!. Not only will you pick up power, but it will also greatly reduce turbo lag. This kit will produce about 400 HP @ 15 psi of boost, assuming you have performed the previous Staged Upgrades. This Staged Upgrade Kit Includes: TANABE CONCEPT G BLUE CATBACK TANABE TURBINE TUBE (DOWNPIPE) Stage 3 Kit - Z06 Killer - 430 HP  Lets face it the New 405HP Z06 is a very fast car. To fend these off you are going to need some big power. This is where the stage 3 kit comes in. We start with freeing up some power that is already there, and allow the car to put it to the wheels, with the Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley / Belt set. With more power you are going to need more fuel, so we add the 600HP capable denso fuel pump and a fuel pump hotwire kit. If you want to keep those Z06's (that are starting to pop up all over) at bay, this is the mininum level of mods you will need. This kit will produce about 430 HP @ 15 psi of boost, assuming you have performed the previous Staged Upgrades. This Staged Upgrade Kit includes:  Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley Gates Belt Set Fuel Pump Hotwire Kit Denso Fuel Pump Stage 4 Kit - SnakeSkinner - 500 HP  Are you setting your sights on vipers? Vipers are some big snakes, but the bigger they are the harder they fall! Imagine the look on the face of the Viper owner that paid $80,000+ for his car to rule the streets, when you show him your taillights out of the hole, and then keep pulling him all the way till your tail lights disapear into the sunset! All with your little V6 Stealth/3000GT, talk about priceless! This Kit will produce about 500 HP @ 20psi, assuming you have performed the previous Staged Upgrades. This Staged Upgrade Kit includes: Dynamic Racing DR500 Turbo Kit ARC-2 Fuel Controller ARM-1 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Denso 550cc Injectors Stage 2 Boost Cooler Kit Stage 5 Kit - Diablo 6.0 Killer - 600+ HP  Want to have the absolute baddest car in town? Want to lay waste to those super exotic supercars? Want to demolish the ego of someone who spent $200,000+ on their car? If you have reckless disregard for the ego's of supercar owners, this is the kit for you!Warning: The following upgrades have been known to promote speeds in excess of 200 mph. If you are unsure of your ability to resist this particular illegal activity, you may want to re-evaluate your decision.  This Kit will produce 600+ HP @ 25psi, assuming you have performed the previous Staged Upgrades. (Stage 1 through Stage 3) This Staged Upgrade Kit includes: Dynamic Racing DR650 Turbo Kit ARC-2 Fuel Controller w/Big MAS ARM-1 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge 660cc Injectors Stage 2 Boost Cooler Kit Kenne-Bell Boost-A-Pump Kit DN O2 Housing/Pre-Cat Eliminator Pipe Kit

N/A Upgrade Guide

Stage 1 (Non Turbo) - 245 HP  Haven’t modified your car yet? This is the perfect kit to start on your road to maximum horsepower! Stillen has made one of the highest flowing open element intakes that still allows clean air to get into the motor. With the Unorthodox underdrive pulley, you will experience horsepower gains from less parasitic drag on the motor, plus reduced rotational weight. We also bundle only the high quality belts to provide everything you need to complete the install. This kit is for all DOHC 3000GT/Stealths.  Stillen Air Intake Kit Unortodox Racing Underdrive Pulley Gates Belt Set Stage 2 (Non Turbo) - 260 HP  The next step in your road to power is to free up your exhaust system. We do this with a Borla Cat Back exhaust system. This is the only exhaust made as a direct bolt in for the 3000GT/Stealth Non Turbo cars. We also include in this stage, a high performance DN Intake Pipe Kit. This smooths out the airflow between the mass air sensor, and the throttle body for increased power and performance, as well as better throttle response. This piece is also polished stainless steel and looks awesome! This kit will provide about 260 horsepower, assuming you have performed the previous Staged Upgrades. Borla Cat Back Exhaust System DN Performance N/A Intake Pipe Kit Stage 3 (Non Turbo) - 275 HP  It's probably about time on your car to replace the spark plugs, and add a fresh set of high performance plug wires. This kit also includes beautiful Unorthodox Racing Cam Gears. By fine tuning your cam timing you can pick up a noticeable increase in power and performance. The cam gears are also an excellent way to dress up the engine compartment. This kit will provide about 275 horsepower, assuming you have performed the previous Staged Upgrades. NGK Double Platinum Plugs Magnecor Wire Set Unorthodox Racing Cam Gears Stage 4 (Non Turbo) - 325 HP  So you say you want to go fast? Time to step up to the plate. With the addition of this Nitrous Oxide System will give you beyond stock VR4 performance in your N/A car. They dont call it "Power in a Bottle" for nothing! Get ready to upgrade your front tires. At this level of performance, you'll be leaving smokey burnouts and Mustangs in your wake. At this horsepower level you will be exceeding your stock fuel pumps limitations. So we add to this kit, our 600 HP capable Denso fuel pump. This kit will provide about 325 horsepower, assuming you have performed the previous Staged Upgrades. 50 HP NOS Nitrous Kit Denso Fuel Pump Stage 5 (Non Turbo) - 400 HP  Got your sites set on smoking LS1's? We've got the package for you! We start by upgrading your nitrous kit with 100 HP jets. Take advantage of all that extra air flow with our DR Custom Street Spec Cams. These cams are specifically designed to increase top end power without decreasing low end torque. To increase breathing ability for your new found power, RC Engineering will bore your throttle body from its existing 60mm, all the way up to 65mm. This kit will provide about 400 horsepower, assuming you have performed the previous Staged Upgrades.  The price of this kit requires you to send in your throttle body and your cams to be modified. 100 HP NOS Jets Big Bore Throttle Body DR Street Spec Cams

Lighten Up Your 3S

Simple ways to lighten up you 3000GT or Stealth -Steering wheel w/ airbag ~ 9 pounds  -Diver Seat ~ 57 pounds -Passenger Seat ~ 44 pounds -Rear seat with both back rests ~ 26 pounds -Complete AC system ~ 29 pounds -Rear wiper assem. and washer fluid reservoir(full) ~ 9 pounds -Complete Audio (double DIN head unit, speakers, power antenna) ~ 18 pounds  -Complete interior minus the dash (headliner, all molding, door cards) ~ 38 pounds -Sound deadening material ~ 15 pounds (removed from bottom of trunk, directly under front seats and rear seats, rear wheel wells) -Empty Fuel Tank ~ 33 pounds  Some more ideas: abs system aws system lexan glass(HUGE weight savings here) lighter battery dashboard exhaust (run open dp) active aero front and rear cruise control module vac reduction egr delete charcoal canister delete fog lights spare tire jack lighter rear crash bar